Wednesday, 8 February 2012

The Power of Making




The recent exhibitions at the V&A and the British Museum (the Power of Making and Grayson Perry) got me thinking about 'making', how we value you it and the place it has or could have in our culture and economy...

The recent Power of Making exhibition at the V&A offered a snapshot of 'making in our time' and showed how traditional skills like crochet and knitting can be re-imagined as crochet bears (Shauna Richardson) or Sandra Backlund's futuristic knitted dress.

The lesson of these objects seems to be - "making doesn't have to be just useful, it can also be fanciful and out of this world."

Which is great and inspirational but in the end making (and it was interesting how the exhibition used this word rather than the more loaded 'crafting') does have a purpose; and sometimes when making fails to follow these rules it can come unstuck. I know from personal experience that the ceramic eye patch must be extremely uncomfortable to wear and that as a maker you would be most unlikely to persuade the RNIB to stock it.

And that brings us to the central failure of the show for me: it's positioning of making as art, which of course it is in many ways but it does also have to be useful and this is nothing to be ashamed of.

This kind of 'arty craft' reflects a more widespread lack of confidence and malaise in UK making and manufacturing more generally; it's as if we feel that at some level our making is just not good enough to stand up for itself and has to masquerade as arty, one off pieces. To put it more crudely, something like, "We're not good enough to be industrial manufacturers and compete with world class producers, so lets just take up crochet and become a nation of amateur makers."
This theme continues with Grayson Perry's show at the British Museum, where he has made his own versions of objects he has chosen from the BM archive. But rather than having the confidence to just let the pieces speak for themselves, he covers them with information and text so that I feel that their own intrinsic meaning is crowded out: there is certainly little space left for the viewer's thoughts and interpretation.

Where single pieces, like the turtle shell bonnet or the black knitted dress from Greece are allowed to just be themselves I found them very powerful.

My question, having seen these two shows is: could 'making' help establish a new democracy of makers (one of the aims of the V&A exhibition) while at the same time make a real contribution to UK manufacturing, inspiring more Emma Bridgewaters and generating new jobs at the same time.

An idea for another show, perhaps....

Thursday, 5 January 2012

Ring out the Bells



At the beginning of the Autumn term and as part of getting to know London, we were given different areas to explore and map. I found myself in Brick Lane, an area I hadn't really visited since I lived there briefly in 1996.

It was October and all the wayside plants were covered with seed. I collected these and made a map of all the plants growing in the cracks in the pavements and on the edges of unwanted ground. In just a few small streets I discovered wonderful gardens where wild fig, burdock, wild carrot, chickweed, daisy, mugwort, wold rose, shepherd's purse, yarrow, nettle, mallow, dandelion, good king henry, wild rocket, cress, ragworrt, buddleia, fat hen, birch and bindweed - all grew in profusion.




Later, I went back to Brick Lane to collect 3 very different objects which I was asked to describe and consider in different contexts. I chose a headscarfe, a peal of bells and nursery rhyme.

1) a headscarfe, bought in Whitechapel Market







2) a peal of Bells , made in the Whitechapel Bell Foundary



3) a nursery rhyme from the Museum of Childhood




Object 1 - A headscarfe

Many years ago I lived in Cheshire Street, off Brick Lane and I used to hear the Iman calling the faithful to prayer four times a day: I remember seeing little boys in their beautiful white caps running down the street to the Mosque as snow began to fall... whenever and where ever I hear a call to prayer - the whiteness, the snowflakes on my face, the muffled footsteps and shouts of joy, seem to pour themselves out from this soaring song.

Over time the Mosque in Brick Lane has been both a synogogue and a church – graciously providing a home for refugee communities as they arrive and move through London and almost effortlessly transforming itself in the process.

Now I’m back in the neighbourhood, I decide to finally answer the call to prayer and visit the mosque myself. I ask my friend Salma, who lives nearby if she can take me, but unfortunately, her father in law has just died and she can’t come, so I decide to be brave and go alone. I get some advice from 2 girls I meet on the tube and they give me directions to the women’s entrance.


I know I need a headscarf, so before going in, I stop at a street stall in the market and buy myself a nice purple and pink one. At least two kind Muslim ladies show me how to wear it and help me pin it into place with beautifully coloured pins. One of them assures me that she never goes to the Mosque. Another lady tells me that she wears a headscarf not because she is Muslim but because it keeps her head warm.

When I get to the Mosque, a sign on the door asks me to remember, ‘....that although God values women’s prayer in the mosque, he values it even more in the home...’. Apparently the Mosque gets so busy, especially for Friday prayers that the clergy have to put up these kind of notices to stop people getting crushed.

Inside I remove my shoes and enter a small, plain room where I can hear the voice of the Iman. I follow what the other women are doing, as they kneel and prostrate themselves and find I am turning my thoughts towards God – even though I am in a Mosque, not a church, where I normally pray: the carpet inside the room is patterned with diagonal borders so that you know which way to face; other than that there is no other decoration and no distraction. Church or mosque – maybe the building doesn’t matter as much as I think.

Object 2 - A peal of bells

The call of the Iman has moved me and I decide to try and find other kinds of communal sound-making that can be used to excite, inform or warn. I think of nearby Bow Bells, rung from St Mary-le-Bow on Cheapside.

According to the old saying, ‘to be born a true Londoner, you must be born within the sound of Bow Bells.’ I’m curious that a sound, like the bells of Bow can come to define a community. And now that hardly anyone lives within the sound of the bells – are there are no more true Londoners or Cockneys anymore?

Strangely, as fewer and fewer people actually live or hear the bells, they have become an ever more potent symbol of London and Englishness - every harvest London’s Pearly King and Queens, along with Morris dancers, Marching bands and topped off with the Lord Mayor of London, march to hear the bells in a rather peculiar demonstration of Englishness: it’s as if all the remnants of a peculiar kind of nationalism have been randomly assembled...

But the bells have always exerted this kind of strange power: during the Second World War the BBC played a recording of the bells at the beginning of every broadcast to occupied Europe, as if the bells were saying ‘Don’t give up hope, you’ll soon be free.’

Ironically, the bells had already been destroyed by enemy action in 1941 and what people were hearing was a recording. The bells were recast at the Whitechapl bellfoundry in 1956.

The Big Bell of Bow (mentioned in the nursery rhyme, my third object) is inscribed with the words:

Now lettest thou thy servant depart in peace, for mine eyes have seen thy salvation.'

The Bell of the Parish of St Mary Le Bow

Hung for curfew 1334

Destroyed by fire 1666

Recast 1669. Recast 1738

Destroyed by enemy action 1941. Recast 1956'


The bells are no longer run that often, but I finally make it to the church one cold December evening and hear the bells. You can hear what I heard at http://www.stmarylebow.co.uk/


Object 3 - A Nursery Rhyme 'Oranges and Lemons'

I visit the Museum of Childhood, to find out more about the famous nursery rhyme. There are no copies in the Museum shop, but the song is painted up on the wall, along with lots of other versions in other languages, sung by local children. In this way, the rhyme is not unlike the Brick Lane mosque/synogogue/church or even like the great bell of Bow itself - appropriated and remade anew by each generation.

The rhyme, describes the bells of London churches having a conversation about a debt that is owed. The rhyme ends with a gruesome allusion to the debtors prison Newgate and the ritual candle that was given to prisoners the night before their execution. Maybe this is why my children like singing it so much.

William Blake heard the song as: 'Mony, mony, get mony still, Let Virtue follow if it will'


Mary-le-Bow now stands right opposite the trading floors of Allied Irish Bank and it's bells can be heard by the traders playing the markets....but rather than sounding grasping and argumentative I heard something else in these bells - something otherworldly, incredibly powerful, transformative perhaps.

Later, I find out that the mathematical pattern of a plain course of bells reads something like:

12244553311


21425435132


341523441523


43513214254


55331122445


and that indeed there is something magical about their configuration. Mathematicians try and capture their ordering in complex graphs and even describe their sound by building solid poyhedra (many sided shapes), including the wonderfully named icosicosidodecahedron.

I am left wondering about whether it would be possible to weave this same order of sounds...











































































Friday, 16 September 2011

Long Live the Makers

Last week, in the spirit of J.B. Priestley’s 1934 English Journey, I set off for the cloth mills of the North with the intention of getting back in touch with our native textile traditions.

I spent a day at Armley Mills – once the largest woollen mill in the world – now a deserted and magical place on the River Aire. Also Moorside Mills, now the Bradford Industrial Museum.
















I also visited working mills of which there are still a few left.




Moons of Guisley have been producing high end woollens (all dyed, spun and woven in the mill) for over 100 years. They manufacture for Ted Baker and Burberry amongst others. Strangely, M&S package Moon’s Yorkshire spun and woven cashmere scarves as Italian. Maybe they should get involved with Prince Charles’ Great British Wool Campaign...




Bradford was and remains the heart of the British wool industry – all the wool produced around the UK is still sold in fortnightly auctions here and the price of wool is at a 25 year high. In Bradford, I bought this lovely handblocked Indian kurta – it has sleeves tacked into the inside as


an optional extra. A bit clothkits...








Finally, I went to see the Burton and Hepworths archive at the Leeds Discovery Centre. Montague Burton built a wholesale bespoke clothing empire based in Leeds – by 1921, he employed over 16,000 people and Burtons was the largest and most popular clothing firm in the world. I saw one of his navy wool pinstripe demob suits – the quality of the cloth and the cut were fabulous. Hepworths, another Leeds own brand grew into Next and is now based in Leicester.




I was most fascinated by these intricate sample weaving cards from the 1930’s, a remnant of Leeds Technical Institute, when people came from all around the world to learn British skills and expertise.



Just outside the archive, I found a beautiful old brick wall - all that was left of the once great West Yorkshire Foundaries. A man from the carriage repair workshop came across the road to commiserate with me – “There are not many of us makers left now...” he said sadly.

But after my brief English Journey I am not so sure.

http://www.leeds.gov.uk/armleyMills/






















Monday, 11 July 2011

Map of World Patterns - Coming to Australia





I have just about finished sewing my Map of the World - for now. There are still quite a few safety pins holding islands and continents together and many more stories to discover...





The last place I travelled to was Australia.






I made this huge and unknown (to me) continent from Aboriginal textile designs, designed for the local as well as tourist market (see http://www.tiwidesigns/) as well as blouse given to me by my friend, Hanna who emigrated to Australia in 2009.



I was really inspired by 1950's Textile designer John Rodriquez take on indigenous Aboriginal patterns: I copied the print from his wonderful 1950's boomerang skirt from and also sewed on some convict-type cloth, which I researched these by looking at the archive at the Sydney Powerhouse Museum.



Here's what Hanna has to say about going to live in a small rural community in Australia:



" We are exploring the area, the National Parks and beaches whenever we get a day and I'm slowly getting a rough idea of how big of a country we are in now

"Over the past few weeks...it slowly starts to feel more like home and a sense of day to day life is hitting in. I am getting to know people better, although with everyone knowing who we are it's still a bit of an overwhelming feeling when you walk through town or when I drop the kids off at school.

"It's a country community and the good side of this is the way they keep an eye out for each other and there is a good amount of trust still between people.




"On the other hand, it sometimes feels more like checking on each other and making some people almost an outcast in the community, less fortunate families etc and a strong stigma on how one should live, and dress and raise their kids, and look after their home and...



"And for me as "the doctors wife" - I'm regularly trying to free my mind from that sort of pressure I'm sensing, to be brave enough to surprise people and not fitting into anyone’s box. With almost an absence of diversity they anyway can't box us properly...

"Franklin attended a course about Aboriginal medicine and how to establish a good relationship with members of this community as a GP. Did you know that 90% of Aborigines have been killed by the first white settlers here? I was sad when I heard that and thought it's not surprising that trust is lacking in any possible way when it comes to the relationship between Aborigines and those who call themselves Australians now.



"It's surprising how any people here have never travelled anywhere beyond their borders and hardly anyone's lived abroad ever. A few people have, which is wonderful. Over all, it's on me to love and respect them for who they are and accept how they are doing things and try to appreciate their way of life without losing mine and adjust where possible.




"And over time, when I've observed and learned more about this community I'm hoping to find ways to help change things for the better.

"It's quite a journey..."


You can see a piece of Hanna's blue chiffon blouse sewn into the map.


I’ve also sewn on some ‘Kandahar’ fabric in memory of the refugees, mostly from Afghanistan and Iraq, who were also coming to Australia and tried to land on Christmas Island in early 2010 but were drowned.


























As for the indigenous population of Australia, I am fascinated to learn that in XXX, local Aboriginal people, were able to use a dream painting as evidence to reclaim ancestral land. It took XX people to carry the painting into the courthouse: it's wonderful to see patterns on skin, paper, cloth and in dreams persisting with such powerful consequences.

Tuesday, 18 January 2011

Nanny Meg's quilt

In November I received a wonderful letter from my friend, Sam.

"I wanted to share one of my fabric stories with you...this one is about my Nanny's quilt.

The quilt was on the little bed at my Nanny's house, I remember scalding my leg on a hot water bottle in that little bed...

The backing of the quilt was made from old blue brushed nylon sheets in a mixture of blues. I can remember having a bad dream in which my brother wore a pair of pyjamas in matching fabric so he could make himself disappear in his bed just like a chameleon...

My grandma passed the quilt to my mum and my nephew and niece did their first roll overs on it. My mum passed the quilt to me and my little ones enjoyed picking at the fraying cloth and dribbling over it when they were small.

...as I write to you another train has just rattled past, reminding me of sleeping under the quilt at my nanny's house in Bickley where you could hear the trains coming over the bridge at the end of the road..."

Here are some pictures of Nanny Meg's quilt. Many thanks to you, Sam XXXX










Saturday, 15 January 2011

'Kandahar, my homeland' and cutting up my curtains


I’ve just finished a short film about cutting up my curtains http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wwnp-Fzka_Y

In the film, I imagine the pattern escaping into an idyllic English country garden…
My film was inspired by the Sanderson fabric, ‘Kandahar’ - with which our sitting room curtains are made and by the poems of Afghan refugee Shabibi Shah.
'Kandahar' was originally adapted in 1967 from an Indienne block printed chinz pattern (c.1860) by the Sanderson design studio at their Perivale wallpaper factory. Sanderson then launched 'Kandahar' as a matching surface printed wallpaper and a screen printed cotton fabric as part of their 1968/9 Third Triad Collection. The fabric cost 12/5 (twelve and five pence) per yard.
According to Sanderson's archivist Michael Parry, 'the design was named after the second largest city in Afghanistan because of its proximity to Pakistan & India (the Persian/Indian cashmere style having originated in the western Himalayas).'

The curtains have already featured on my Map of World Patterns - see my blog on Paisley and Chinz from April 2010. Naturally, they do not reflect typical Kandahari textiles, which are more abstract in design and likely to look more like this -

Friday, 10 December 2010

Alex and her 'Buscherum' - a traveller's tale


This is my dear friend - Alexandra. This is the story about her favourite shirt, a seafaring shirt from Hamburg - the place of her birth. It's traditionally worn by fishermen and sailors working on the River Elbe, one of the rivers that runs through Hamburg and into the North Sea. The shirt is called 'Buscherum' - an old Saxon word for shirt. It is made from thick cotton and feels heavy and smooth to wear. The 'halstuch' (literally 'neck fabric') is the matching square of red fabric, worn around the neck.


The 'Buscherum' has special coloured ribbons sewn into the sleeves (which you can just see) - red on the left hand side as a reminder for 'port' and green on the right side as a reminder for 'starboard.' These make me think about other kinds of reminders you can sew into your clothes...


"As a child in Hamburg, I remember seeing lots of people wearing these shirts in the harbour. You still see people wearing them now but not as many. These shirts are comfortable and strong - ideal for heavy duty work (like working in the workshop) which is what I do.

"I like the blue with white stripes, infact I like anything with stripes. And I always feel like a bit of a sailor myself, a bit of a traveller - I left home when I was 15 and I have lived since then in England and France, working as a violin maker, so these shirts suit me."

On my map, I've sewn some 'port' and 'starboard' ribbons onto Northern Germany - roughly where the River Elbe ('port') and nearby Kiel canal ('starboard'), run into the Sea.

Alexandra herself now lives far further south, near Toulouse in France, where she makes beautiful violins. You can see more of her work at http://apenberg.free.fr/